Wine is legally defined in some countries as the alcoholic beverage made by fermentation of the juice of suitable grapes, followed by the cellar treatment. Wine is made using different grape varieties and usually has an alcoholic content between 9% and 15% by volume. Wine is essentially a dilute solution of ethyl alcohol, containing also certain small quantities of ethers and ethereal salts which give character and bouquet.
Wines vary in colour (red, white, rosé, etc.) and sugar content (sweet, dry, etc.), may be effervescent (sparkling) or non-effervescent (still), and are sometimes strengthened with additional alcohol (fortified).
The European Union is responsible for 60% of global wine production and consumption. European Community legislation classifies wine in two main categories: “quality wines produced in specific regions”, and “table wines”.
The former category indicates a defined viticultural growing region also known as Appellation d’Origine Controlee meaning “regulated origin name” (AOC) whereby specific grape varietals are grown, harvested and made into wines. Table wines may have an alcohol content that is no higher than 14% in the U.S. In Europe, light wine must be within 8.5% and 14% alcohol by volume. Thus, unless a wine has more than 14% alcohol, or it has bubbles, it is a table wine or a light wine. The term “table wine”, by taking a distinctly different direction in the New World than it did in Europe, gives rise to confusion.
Historically, the term means just what it says – wine intended to be consumed with food, as indeed most wines are. In Europe, “vins de table” in French, “vino da tavola” in Italian, “Tafelwein” in German, “vino de mesa” in Spanish, “vinho de mesa” in Portuguese, “bordvin” in Danish or “epitrapezios oinos” in Greek – which all translate to “table wine” in English – are low cost wines that until recently did not include on the label the information on the grape variety used or the region of origin. Table wines (often called “vin ordinaire”) are cheap wines made from grapes or regions that can’t qualify for higher classifications. However, sometimes a producer may elect to go against tradition and make a high-end wine that simply doesn’t fit the standards required for regional classification. Recently, it was acknowledged that current EU labelling is confusing and inflexible and it was decided to allow the use of certain particular indications such as grape variety and vintage year for all wines. Table wines are also classified as “white”, “red” or “rose”, depending on the colour.
In the U.S., regulatory authorities went in an entirely different direction. Under federal wine-labelling rules which categorize wines on the basis of alcoholic content for taxation, the term has absolutely nothing to do with quality. Rather, any wine made from grapes with an alcoholic content of between 7% and 14% by volume, is classified as a “table wine”. In fact, if the wine contains between 11% and 14% alcohol, it may simply bear the term “table wine” on the label and need not specify its actual alcohol level. (Just to make things a little more complicated, wines over 14% in the U.S. are technically considered “dessert wine”, even if they are not sweet.)
The European appellation system is based on the French certification originally granted to certain French geographical indications for wines, cheeses, butters, and other agricultural products, by the government bureau Institute National des Appellations d’Origine (INAO). This mechanism is much more than a simple geographic description. The classification is governed by history, tradition, culture, terroir, and even by tight controls over production decisions, irrigation, plant varieties, etc. In fact, it provides a tool for product differentiation in order to better fit demand segmentation so as to create higher added value for producers and consumers. Producers undertake a long-term commitment with regard to both quantity and quality and gain access to a collective reputation. For consumers, there is an important guarantee that they are buying a product of a specific origin and quality. However, the responsibility to classify and control these quality wines is left to EU Member States. Each country has its own wine regulations which aim at ensuring that growers and vintners adhere to certain standards in growing and producing wine. Consequently, this practice has given rise to different classification of wines according to the Member State. In this short article, we shall attempt to provide you with a quick guide to the wine classifications of the three major European wine producing countries, namely France, Italy and Spain.
FRANCE: Wines in France are categorized under the following wine grades:
1. Appellation d’Origine Controlee (AOC). Wines designated AOC are of the highest quality and have passed the tight regulations on grape growing and controlling the alcohol content. Soil, grape varieties, yields, alcohol levels, vine densities, pruning, and other variables are all officially regulated. The committee which decides on the permitted grape varieties for an appellation includes a geologist. Wines must be submitted for tasting and chemical analysis before being marketed. The requirements vary from region to region, but these things will always feature: areas of production, grape varieties allowed, viticultural practices (planting distances, pruning methods, etc.), maximum permitted yield per hectare, and vinification methods (wine production) including ageing. The minimum permitted alcoholic degree in the wine that must be achieved without enrichment and the labels must include the term Appellation Controlee and the name of the appellation.
The word “Origine” is often replaced by the name of the place of origin of the wine “Appellation Beaujolais controlee”. Certain AOCs for wine are recognized as being superior to others as first established by the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855. Typically, these are variations on “cru”, the French word for growth, and depend on the region. In general, wines called “grand cru” are at the top of the quality hierarchy, with “premier’s crus” one level below. Beneath these are simple named places. Depending on the region, a cru might be assigned to an estate or to a legally-defined vineyard area. In theory, a Grand Cru should be the finest expression of its site, however it is generally a more accurate indicator of price than quality. Some regions have the right to the additional qualification superiéur, e.g. Bordeaux Supérieur, Mâcon Supérieur. That means that these wines have a slightly higher alcohol amount than the normal basic appellation. AC wines occupy 37% of French vineyards, and account for 29% of wine production.
2. Appellation d’Origine Vins Delimites de Qualite Superieure (AOVDQS). These are regulated in the same way as the AOC wines, but zones are drawn around commune boundaries. These wines are considered as superior quality wines from specified areas. In the hierarchy of wines, they come just below the AC and above table wines. The laws are roughly the same as for AC but nowadays, they are often less stringent on yields or grape varieties. Rules apply to the zone of production, grape variety, minimum alcohol, and methods of growing and producing. In general, this is an intermediate category which is being phased out as more Vins de Pays are introduced. Many of the better VDQS wines have been promoted to AC status.
3. Vin de pays. These wines have 100% of one type of grape grown in one specific region only and are strictly regulated. There are about 150 different Vin de Pays appellations in France for each area of origin. A country wine production zone is much larger than an AOC. Approximately 25% of the French wine production are Vin de Pays. Winemakers must use specific grape varieties suggested by a “Conseil Interprofessionnel” (joint committee of professionals). However, regulation is less restrictive than for AOC wines. For instance, these wines can list on the label the grape varieties used, while AOC wines cannot. All wines are analyzed, tasted and eventually approved as Vin de Pays. These wines are increasingly popular these days, rather cheap and mostly served as daily drinking wines. This classification was adopted to help give added value to certain Vins de Table and also to help reduce the quantity of bulk wine produced in areas such as the Midi, which were known for high yield and low quality. The area of production can be regional (e.g. Vin de Pays d’Oc which covers four departments, or Vin de Pays de’Aude which is one department). It can even be zonal within a department.
Vins de Pays must have a minimum strength of 9% in the north and 10% in the south and other levels of sulphur and volatile acidity levels. They must have at least 10% alcohol-by-volume and be tasted and approved for appropriate varietal characteristics. These must be from a specific area (varying in size from a small vineyard to a large region) of France; produced from certain grape varieties approved for that region; and must observe maximum crop yields and minimum alcohol contents specified for that region. This is a relatively new category, introduced in 1983, and these wines are often excellent value for money. They fall into two groups: firstly, wines produced from traditional local grapes, usually blends, but not given AC status (see below), often for somewhat subjective reasons; secondly, wines produced from non-traditional grapes for that region (e.g. Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon in southern France), which are therefore excluded from AC status. The second group usually states the grape variety on the label, and is often more expensive than the first group. Most Vins de Pays are reds, and 85% of these are produced in the Mediterranean region (Languedoc-Roussillon & Provence).
4. Vin de table. This “table wine” varies in alcohol content and is of the lowest quality, usually for everyday occasions. These are not labelled with any region designation or vintage date. About 40% to 50% of the wine produced in France fall under the table wine category. “Vin de Table" is the every day wine of France. Indeed it is the lowest classification. There are few restrictions and rules are set by the European Union. The labels do not have to mention the area of origin. Typically a wine table is a mix of several grapes sometimes coming from different countries within the European Union. Wines using grapes grown in France are called “Vin de table français”. Wines using European grapes are called European table wine. It can be produced anywhere in the country with no restrictions on grape variety, but the wine must not be chaptalised (must enrichment, addition of sugar to increase the alcohol level). No maximum yield is stipulated, but a proportion of wine over 100hl/ha must be sent for distillation and the greater the over-production, the lower the price paid per hectolitre for distilling wine.
The regulations have been changed to encourage growers to produce lower yields of better quality wines.
ITALY: Italy produces and exports more wine than any other country and offers the greatest selection of types. The four classifications of Italian wine are:
1. Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG). This classification denotes the highest quality recognition for Italian wines. It was established in 1980 and comprised of a relatively limited number of first-class wines. Today, there is currently a list of 25 wines that have been given this highest classification. The main provisions for this classification include reduced output yields, in-depth chemical analyses of wine’s composition, specified sensory analyses, minimum alcohol the wine must contain and minimum periods of aging. Also, they must have characteristics related to the culture, environment, and climate.
DOCG measures insure that each bottle is counted, providing an exact measure of production, and contains a government seal that is applied by hand. In fact, the DOCG rules prove their worth in all cases in which audit procedures show the precise ratio of bottles to output of grapes and wine. It is a costly procedure, usually reserved for expensive wines.
2. Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) or Certification of Controlled Origin. This classification was created in 1963 and is basically the equivalent of the French wine classification Appellation d’Origine Controlee (AOC). There are approximately 300 wines classified as DOC located throughout Italy. This particular classification designates the production area, and these wines must have attributes that are significant to the area they are from. Wines that fall under the DOC category must be made in specified, government defined zones, in accordance to particular regulations that are intended to preserve the wine’s character that is uniquely derived from Italy’s individual regions. These wines have similar characteristics and guidelines as the DOCG wines; that is, they must satisfy strict standards in regard to maximum yields, specified sensory analyses, originating zone, minimum alcohol the wine must contain, minimum periods of ageing and grape variety.
Wines that fall under the DOC category must be made in specified, government-defined zones, in accordance with specific regulations intended to preserve the wine’s character that is uniquely derived from the country’s individual regions. It is modelled after the French AOC in 1963 and overhauled in 1992 for compliance with the equivalent EU law on Protected Designation of Origin which came into effect that year.
3. Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) or Typical Geographic Indication. This most recent classification, introduced in 1997, refers to wines that are related to the particular production area. This classification includes wines from approximately 120 areas or regions. Since this is a recent classification, these numbers are expected to increase. This appellation was created for the “new” wines of Italy and includes those that had not followed the strict, old wine laws but nevertheless were wines of high quality. The famous Super Tuscans are now IGT’s, whereas before they were in the table wine category. The main requirements are related to territories and grape varieties used.
IGT generally denotes ubiquitous table wines grown in specific regions throughout Italy. However, some very good wines fall under this classification to avoid the strict regulations associated with DOC.
4. Vino Da Tavola (VdT) or table wine. Most Italian wines fall into this classification. The appellation indicates either an inferior type of wine, or one that does not follow current wine law. Some good quality wines do carry this appellation. These are wines produced in bulk specifically for the everyday needs of Italian wine drinkers, and are the house wines commonly found in taverns and trattorias. The only criteria of Italian table wines is that they must be produced somewhere in Italy. The other main regulation is the alcohol level. They are low-priced and easy to drink. Sometimes they are good but usually you can’t be sure of where they came from or when they were produced. The bottle’s label only needs to say the region it was bottled in, the amount of alcohol and the amount of wine in the bottle.
SPAIN: From the time that Spain joined the European Union, Spanish wines have been adapted to European standards. This means that they have been classified into at least two major groups: Quality Wines Produced in Specified Regions (QWPSR) and Table Wine (TW). Furthermore, Spain has five “quality” wines or “regulated” classifications, namely;
1. Vinos de Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa) or Qualified Denomination of Origin Wines. This category is reserved for wine that has achieved high levels of quality over a long period of time. The first designated wine to enter this class was Rioja in April 1991. The requirements that must be fulfilled to achieve this status include the status for at least 10 years in the category of Denomination of Origin, which guarantees that wines from a specific area have consistently performed at the highest quality level for a number of years. Rioja was the first region afforded this designation in 1991, and was followed by Priorat in 2003 and Ribera del Duero in 2008. The wines must be bottled in the specified wine region.
2. Vinos de Denominación de Origen (DO) or Denomination of Origin Wines. Wines bearing the DO distinction are prestigious Spanish wines produced in a demarcated production area and are made according to parameters governing quality and type. Each DO must be regulated by a Governing Body (Consejo Regulador) that is responsible for ensuring the use of grapes of the authorized varieties, and compliance with parameters governing production per hectare, approved methods of wine making and ageing times. In order for wines to be given Denomination of Origin status, the production area is required to have been recognized over at least the previous five years as a region producing quality wines with a geographical indication. Spanish wine laws created the Denominación de Origen (DO) system in 1932 and were later revised in 1970. The system shares many similarities with the hierarchical Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system of France and Italy’s Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) system.
Wines that have been granted DO/DOC status will feature the regional stamp of the Consejo Regulador on the label. In 2005, nearly two thirds of the total vineyard area in Spain was within the boundaries of a DO region.
3. Vino de Calidad Producido en Región Determinada (VCPRD) or Quality Wines Produced in Specified Regions (QWPSR). This is another category established for the first time in the Vineyard and Wine Act. It designates wines made in a certain region using grapes grown in that same region whose quality, reputation or characteristics are due to the “geographic environment”, the human factor or both, as regards the production of the fruit and the making or ageing of the wine.
They are identified on their labels by the phrase Vino de calidad de... (Quality wine from...), followed by the name of the region where they are produced. This level is similar to France’s Vin Délimité de Qualité Supérieure (VDSQ) system and is considered a stepping stone towards DO status.
4. Vino de la Tierra (VT or VdlT) or “wines of the land” or “country wines.” The label designation “Vino de la Tierra” is used for categorizing and naming Spanish wines that are not in DO designated growing regions. A lower quality wine, but they must, in the same way as DO approved wines, carry a vintage date and regional identification. Their level is similar to France's vin de pays system, normally corresponding to specific geographical regions which will appear on the label with these broader geographical designations like Andalucia, Castilla La Mancha and Levante.
5. Vino de Mesa, Table Wines (VDM - TW). Wines that don’t fall into the above categories are relegated to “table wine” status, and labelled under this quite literal term, “vino de mesa”. These wines typically do not include a region, grape or specific vintage on the label. This is the lower level of the wine classification system. These wines fall outside the DO system. They are table wines that do not carry vintage dates or regional identification. More often than not, they are a blend of wines from many regions and vintages.
These are wines that are the equivalent of most country's table wines and are made from unclassified vineyards or grapes that have been declassified through "illegal" blending. Similar to the Italian Super Tuscans from the late 20th century, some Spanish winemakers will intentionally declassify their wines so that they have greater flexibility with blending and winemaking methods.
Wine News and Information
Hodgson, a retired professor at Humboldt State University in Arcata, California and owner of the Fieldbrook Winery in Fieldbrook, California, became curious about the phenomenon of wine judges’ inconsistency as a result of his own experience as a judge for the California fair’s competition. He conducted a survey of approximately 65 judging panels’ results between 2005 and 2008, and found that just only 30 panels achieved anything close to similar results. The phenomenon was so pronounced, in fact, that one panel of judges rejected two samples of identical wine, only to award the same wine a double gold in a third tasting.
While the lack of concordance among competition judges is well-known, Hodgson was intrigued at the specific causes, and suggested examining judge reliability at the California competition. To do so, Hodgson developed two sets of trials that saw triplicate samples embedded in flights of wines the judges tasted during regular competitions at the California State Fair. The goal was to see if judges could replicate their results. “It turns out to be a fairly difficult task,” Hodgson said.
The first trial saw wines qualified for a final judging. A single wine was given to four judges in triplicate. A sample rejected by at least half the judges would not proceed to the final judging. Ultimately, three of four judges rejected the first two of the triplicate samples. The judges accepted the third sample for the final judging, where it received a double gold medal.
The second trial saw four triplicate samples given to each judge. These were poured from the same bottle, reducing the potential for variation among the samples each judge received. The results show that there are some judges that are more consistent than others, but there’s a lot of variation or inconsistency in general. Hodgson made clear that “It’s not that the judges are bad judges. I think the format of having a judge taste 30 wines four times a day exceeds the limits of their abilities.”
Hodgson said the question of judge reliability is important because competitions are not cheap for participants, but winning gold medals or other honours stands to significantly improve a winery’s sales. Consistent results could underscore the merits of the wines receiving awards.
More recently, Richard Gawel and P.W. Godden examined the results of “expert wine tasters” over a 15-year period in the Australian Journal of Grape Wine Research. Gawel and Godden concluded that consistency varied greatly among individuals, but improved through the combination of scores from a small team of tasters.
Media in the USA have requested the new president, Barack Obama, to fill the cellars of the White House as soon as possible with good wines from around the world, and not to serve only young wines. The online magazine Slate, for example, was referring to an interview given last autumn by the cellar master of the White House, Daniel Shanks. At the time, the person responsible for the president’s wine cellars said that mature wines would not go with the youthful atmosphere or with the menus at the White House, which are anything but lavish. In fact, there is no real wine cellar as such, only a room next to the kitchen, in which 500-600 bottles of wine are stored. In addition, only wines produced in the USA are served.
It sounds too good to be true, but an Australian doctor insists he has created the world’s healthiest tipple: a wine that cleans the arteries as you drink it, reducing the risk of heart attack. Philip Norrie, who owns a vineyard in New South Wales, is producing wines with up to 100 times the antioxidant content of a standard drop. He calls them “vascular pipe-cleaners”, saying the antioxidant they contain – resveratrol, which occurs naturally in grapes – helps to keep blood vessels free of fatty deposits.
Dr. Norrie believes that while the positive effects of moderate wine consumption had long been documented, “the inclusion of such large quantities of this beneficial antioxidant is very good news for wine drinkers”. He claims that “What we've been able to do is boost the amount of resveratrol in wine – and you won’t even know it’s there. You’re effectively clearing your arteries while you drink.”
At his boutique 50-acre estate in the Lower Hunter Valley north of Sydney, Dr. Norrie is producing a Shiraz and a Chardonnay with 100mg per litre of resveratrol. That, he says, is 70 to 100 times the amount found in an ordinary bottle of white, or 15 to 20 times the amount in a bottle of red. But Dr. Norrie, a wine historian with a PhD in “wine and health through the ages” and who produces his healthy tipples under a label called Wine Doctor, warns drinkers: “I stress that these benefits are best realised with moderate drinking”.
Dr. Norrie likes to quote Paracelsus, the 16th century Swiss physician regarded as the father of modern pharmacology, who declared: “Whether wine is nourishment, medicine or poison, is a matter of dosage”. He also quotes the 18th century American scientist Benjamin Franklin: “Wine is constant proof that God loves to see us happy”.
The positive effects of resveratrol were confirmed yesterday by David Colquhoun, a senior cardiologist at the University of Queensland. He said studies “strongly suggested” that drinking wine rich in the antioxidant could lessen the risk of heart attack, stroke and cardiovascular disease.
Here at Monolithos, we have always said that only you can be the judge when it comes to wines you will like. Judging panels and rating systems can be used as a guideline, but you need to judge for yourself. Wine is the most personal beverage in the world. So many things go into how each one judges a wine. So listen to your own senses when it comes to choosing a wine favourite… taste many, but decide yourself how they are rated.
Monolithos Monthly News
Pruning, which is quite simply the cutting back of dead wood and superfluous plant growth, is the single most important step in vineyard management. Prior to coming into its winter dormancy, each vine sets its buds for the upcoming year. The number of buds set is governed by the growing patterns of the past season and pruning is carried out accordingly so that the vine is not stressed and produces a healthy harvest. Pruning is completed during the first two months of the year and is followed by vineyard cultivation. Cultivation should be started as soon as the soil is dry enough in spring. Vineyards must be cultivated in order to eliminate competition between vines and weeds for moisture and nutrients.
March is a busy time at the winery. White wines are ready for bottling and reds are undergoing cold stabilization. It is also the time that wines are developing and exhibiting their character. Frequent wine tasting helps the evaluation of their potentials.
All last year’s wines are available for tasting so, if at any time you are passing near the village of Pachna and wish to visit the winery or purchase any of our products, Martin Wood will be pleased to meet and assist you at his “Fig Tree Villa” in Pachna, so do not hesitate to phone him at 25-816212 or 99-165995.
Regards from all of us here at Monolithos and always remember:
“Wisdom doesn’t automatically come with old age. Nothing does – except wrinkles. It’s true that some wines improve with age. But only if the grapes were good in the first place.”
