Cyprus Wine Blog - April 2010

This article focuses on the evolution of the wine production in Cyprus in recent years. Wine is, in simple terms, a beverage – but it is also an industry, a culture and a valuable natural resource. Any attempt to study the production and commercialisation of wine has to look into a multitude of subjects and sources because it is truly an interdisciplinary topic, potentially linking geography (climate, soil, and topography), sociology, history and economics.

The island of Cyprus , situated in the far eastern Mediterranean Sea, is the third largest in the Mediterranean (9,250 sq km). Cyprus sits precariously at the cross-roads between Asia and Europe , a strategic location that has heavily influenced its 10,000-year history. It has Syria and Lebanon to the east, Turkey to the north and Egypt to the south. The physical setting for life on the island is dominated by two mountain ranges and the central plain of Messaoria they encompass. The Troodos mountains cover most of the southern and western portions of the island and account for roughly half its area. The island has a maximum length of about 220 km from Cape Andreas in the northeast to the western extremity of the island.

In ancient times, Cyprus was known as the home of Aphrodite, Goddess of Love, and an island of a fine sweet wine called “nama”. The arrival of Greeks on the island dates back to 1400-1300 BC. Through the years, Cyprus has been ruled by the Phoenicians (1050-750 BC), the Assyrians (709-669 BC) and the Egyptians, who took over the island until 546 BC when they were replaced by a Persian domination. The Greeks and the Ptolemy (descendants of Alexander the Great) ruled from 475-50 BC, then came the Romans (58 BC-330 AD), the Byzantines (330-1191 AD), the Francs (Lusignan Rule, 1192–1489), and the Venetians (1489-1571). Turkey captured the island in 1571 and ruled it until the British took over in 1878. It remained a British colony until the establishment of the Republic of Cyprus in 1960. Although having successfully assimilated the assortment of influences it has received, Cyprus preserves its predominantly Hellenic character and heritage, deeply rooted in the island since the 2nd Millennium BC .

Winemaking in Cyprus goes back 4,000 years. It is interesting to note that during the Ptolemaic empire rule, import duties were imposed on imported wine in order to protect the local production. Homer, Pliny, Seneca and others referred to and praised the Cypriot sweet wine in their writings. Marcus Antonio even gave Cyprus as a present to Cleopatra because of its wine! In the 11th century AD during the crusades, the sweet Cypriot wine became famous under the name of “Commandaria”, symbolizing its geographic origin. The name comes from the area called “Commanderie” where the Knights of St. John established their headquarters. The method of producing this wine had already been documented by Hesiod (8th century BC), the ancient Greek writer. Later, with the domination of Venice in the Mediterranean Sea, the wines of Cyprus were transported to Venice , re-jarred (instead of rebottled) and sold to the rest of Europe . Britain administered the island from 1878-1960, and during that time, a very popular sherry-style wine was produced. In fact, Cyprus was until recently the fifth largest supplier of wines to the British market.

The island’s location has ensured that it played a full part in Mediterranean history, and its essentially Greek culture is enriched by many other influences from the various rulers. The most important modern influence has probably been that of the British, whose stay has contributed substantially to the island’s current Western business environment.

Today, Cyprus is a modern country that effortlessly marries European culture with ancient enchantment. The Cyprus Republic is recognized by the UN and all countries of the world (except Turkey ) and has a population of around 800,000. The main cities are Nicosia (the capital and business centre), Limassol, Pafos, Larnaca, Famagusta and Kyrenia. All, apart from the capital, are coastal cities. Cyprus successfully completed the EU accession process, and in May 2004, the island joined the European Union.

Cyprus has all the necessary ingredients for producing and marketing its wines, labelled with a specific appellation based on its unique natural elements, local characteristics and traditions, which are most commonly known in the wine world as “terroir”. The notion implies that grapes grown in designated places can imprint a distinctive mark of quality on the wines produced. While this has somewhat to do with the “earth” in terms of the soil composition, grade and sunlight exposure of the land in question, “terroir” also encompasses the microclimate of that area and other factors, including local winemaking practices and traditions.

It is not by mere chance that Cyprus has this long tradition in grape growing. The reasons are apparent: vines have been cultivated in their natural climate and soil environment for centuries. The weather is an obvious determinant of grape production. Many climatic elements influence grape quality and yield. For example, spring frost and high winds during flowering could destroy the production. Hail at any time during the growing season could damage the grapes. Rain or high humidity during summer could result in rot. Rain at harvest will dilute the juice and affect the quality of the wine.

A Mediterranean climate generally has mild winters and long warm summers. Cyprus has an intense Mediterranean climate with strong seasonal characteristics with respect to weather, temperature and rainfall. Summers are hot from mid-May to mid-September, and winters are mild from November to mid-March, but this generalization must be modified by consideration of altitude which lowers temperatures by about 5ºC per 1,000 metres, and of marine influences which give cooler summers and warmer winters near most of the coastline, especially on the south and west coasts. Lowland inland areas during summer can be up to 10ºC warmer than the coast, and the mountains are usually cooler.

Rainfall is geographically unevenly distributed, with maximum precipitation falling on the island’s two mountainous terrains and minimum precipitation observed in the eastern plain. The average annual total precipitation increases from approximately 450 millimetres on the lowlands to nearly 1,100 millimetres at the top of the central Troodos massif, which, with a height of almost 2,000 metres, plays an important part in the meteorology of Cyprus . Snow occurs rarely in the coastal areas but falls frequently every winter on ground above 1,000 metres, usually starting in December and ending by the month of April. Although snow cover is not continuous during the coldest months, it may lie to considerable depths for several weeks, especially on the northern slopes of Troodos.

Cyprus has a fragile ecosystem with very limited water resources. Until recently, all water resources available in Cyprus came from rainfall. Humidity may be described as average during winter days and at night throughout the year. Near midday in summer, it is very low with values on the central plain usually a little over 40% and occasionally as low as 15%. However, humidity near the coast could climb from 65% to 95%. In summer, differences in temperature between sea and land are built up daily in predominant periods of clear skies. These cause considerable sea and land breezes which regularly penetrate far inland reaching the capital, Nicosia , and often bring a welcome reduction of temperature and also an increase in humidity. Generally, summer is a season of high temperatures and almost negligible rainfall. Higher altitudes offer cooler summers which allow the slower ripening of grapes, giving them a full flavour. A stable sunny weather during the last two months before harvest is critical as far as the quality of the grapes is concerned. The winters are mild and the gentle winds and breezes check the frosts, dispel the fogs and protect the vines and grapes from fungus diseases.

The vineyards of Cyprus are mostly on the southern and western slopes of the Troodos mountain range. The wine producing areas are situated mainly in the Limassol district in the south and Pafos district in the west. The vineyards are generally on terraced, hilly slopes, with an altitude of 250m to 1,300m above sea level (apart from the Madari area which has an altitude of 1,600m above sea level).

Although there are over 21,000 vineyards in Cyprus , covering a total of over 17,000 hectares (1 hectare = 10,000 m²), only 5% of the vineyards exceed two hectares in size. Most of the vines form low bushes close to the earth. This allows for minimal water needs and offers shade to the fruit during summer. Apart from providing grape juice to produce wine, the significance of tending vines in these infertile, stony and sloping soils on the hills and mountains of Cyprus in fact prevented soil erosion and, for centuries, supported the local population, enabling them to stay and work in the countryside especially in these deprived areas. Table grapes, which mature early, thrive on the fertile coastal plains stretching from Limassol to Pafos.

The majority of Cyprus soils are calcareous (chalk and limestone) sedimentary formations. The soil of the Pafos district is generally more fertile than the lower Limassol district. Higher up on the Troodos mountain range there are volcanic formations. The same type of soil can be found in the Pitsilia region. Calcareous soil is typically cool in temperature and provides good water retention and drainage.

In these areas, where the soil is not sufficiently fertile for agriculture and the land is fractioned into small fields, wine grape growing has written history and determined the distribution of human settlements. We know that limestone and chalk have important effects. What vines like best is poor and well drained soil. The viticulture areas of Cyprus have soil that drains freely yet maintains good moisture retention, which is important for the development of the grapes during the long, dry summer period.

The element of soil relates both to the composition and the intrinsic nature of the vineyard soils, such as fertility, drainage and the ability to retain heat. It is acknowledged worldwide that the best vineyards tend to have poorer, less fertile, thinner and better drained soil. Under such conditions, the soil acts as a natural brake on the vigour of the vine; this in turn helps control the amount of grapes the vine produces, giving a more concentrated flavour. Slopes facilitate drainage, getting more direct sunshine and therefore better fruit ripeness. Shallow, rocky, calcareous soil, combined with the local microclimate, produces wines of intense flavour and aroma. Altitude can also play an important role in determining the quality of grapes. In Cyprus , vines are cultivated in some of the highest altitudes (1,500m) in the world.

Factors such as soil, climate, viticulture and wine making techniques all affect wine quality, however grape variety is the easiest to understand and notice. Cyprus has 17 distinct indigenous vine varieties. Most of these varieties are only found in specific areas of the island. The principal indigenous grapes mostly diffused on Cyprus are: Xynisteri, Maratheftiko and Mavro (local black), Ofthalmo, Lefkada, Muscat of Alexandria, Yiannoudhi, Maroucho, and Flouriko. Other white grape varieties used for vinification are Promara, Spourtiko, Kanela, Morokanela and Katomylitiko. However, their production is so small that they are used primarily for blends.

Cyprus is one of the very few places in the world that has avoided the phylloxera and continues to be free of it. The local vines are planted using own-rooted vines (“franc de pied”) without grafting, that is self-sown plants of the original European “vitis vinifera”, thus retaining their classic organoleptic characteristics. The vines are commonly spaced in 2mx2m formations and trained as bushes at a height of 0,5m.

Xynisteri is the prevailing white grape and Mavro is the most cultivated red grape variety on the island. Maratheftiko or Bambakada is the most promising red grape variety of Cyprus , due to its qualities. Even though Maratheftiko has great potential as a variety, it has not been preferred for cultivation due to its low yield. Newer varieties that have been introduced to Cyprus since the 1950’s include Palomino, Chardonnay, Semillon, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz , Carignan, Mataro , Alicante Bouchet, Grenache, etc.

In the decades that followed, vines became one of the larges crops in Cyprus with regard to land use and value of agricultural exports. The number of grape varieties increased from a couple of dozen to over 200, however not all of them have been found suitable for local conditions, so the lion’s share during this period was provided by the local varieties “Mavro” (75%) and “Xynisteri” (15%).

During most of the last century, wine production has remained in the hands of four major wineries on the island. The “Big Four”, namely KEO, LOEL, SODAP and ETKO, produced large volumes of blended wines. Unfortunately, 94% of the production – because of its good body – was exported in bulk to England , France , Germany , the Soviet Union and other European countries and was used to reinforce the importers’ local wines, or was distilled into industrial alcohol. Only 6% of the wine was left on the island in bottles with the original brand. Consequently, although Cyprus has over 5,000 years of winemaking history, it was not on the map of the wine-producing countries in the 20th century.

Fortunately, in the early 1980s, the Cyprus Government – as part of its drive to revive rural industries – allowed the establishment of small enterprises to operate local wineries in the grape growing regions. An ambitious programme was initiated on the replanting of old vineyards with noble varieties of lower yield and higher quality grapes. Particular emphasis was placed in exploiting the potentials of indigenous grape varieties, with special characteristics for the production of wines which were capable of offering the consumer a new sensory experience. In addition to the indigenous grapes, the following international varieties are cultivated producing either pure or mixed wines: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan Noir, Syrah, Grenache Noir, Mataro , Merlot, Chardonnay, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling.

A great deal of continuous research has been carried out in order to produce wines that reach the international standards with a local flavour. Wines made of these varieties are an interesting expression of the Cypriot “terroir”. Since the late 1980s, Cypriot wine making has shifted from large quantity but low quality fast consumption wines for export to non-sophisticated markets to quality wine production. Cyprus wine making is currently going through a renaissance. The majority of the vine growers have now realized that a “great wine” is born in the vineyard and, therefore, they avoid high yields, select the appropriate grape varieties and cultivate them the correct way. Most wineries have their own vineyards, or exercise control over the quality of their raw materials by supervising the vineyard cultivation and harvesting.

With the change of agricultural law towards viticulture, there are now more than 40 independent wine producers in Cyprus producing approximately 15% of the annual wine production. Their contribution to the diversification of style and development of new wines has been immense. Each year brings advances in quality and the introduction of exciting new wines using local as well as famous international grape varieties. The latter provides a standard against which the abilities of Cypriot wine can be compared, whilst the blends with traditional varieties preserve the local identity that has survived through the ages.

Perhaps the most important challenge that will influence the Cyprus wine production during the 21st century is the joining of Cyprus to the EU, which offers easier access to the wider European countries, but also opens up the home market to increased competition. Since its accession to the EU, Cyprus has undergone significant structural reforms that have transformed its economic landscape. Monopolies and subsidies have been abolished, trade and interest rates have been liberalised, and price controls and investment restrictions have been lifted. These factors, along with the country’s strategic location, favourable tax incentives, educated work force, outstanding telecommunications, excellent banking services, developed legal infrastructure and air links to all important destinations have made Cyprus an ideal base for companies’ international business operations.

The world wine production averages approximately 275 million hl per annum. The total EU production on the world wine market amounts to about 175 million hl and occupies a leading position in the worldwide market. It accounts for 65% of production and 57% of global consumption. The EU remains the world’s largest wine producer, consumer, exporter and importer. Total EU-27 wine production in 2008/09 dropped one percent due to adverse weather, mainly in France and Spain . EU exports in 2008 declined 5% in volume, but grew 11%. Within the EU, the production of France , Italy and Spain represents, on average, 75%-80% of the total. France , Italy and Spain are not only the EU but the world’s top producers by volume. The list of EU producers continues with Germany in fourth place, followed by Portugal , Hungary , Greece , Austria , Slovenia , the Czech Republic , Slovakia and Cyprus . Currently Cyprus produces more wine per person than any other country in the world. However, ironically the country also has one of the lowest per capita wine consumption rates in Europe . For this reason, the Cypriot wine industry is largely dependent on foreign markets.

The European Commission wants to halt the declining trend in wine production by spending more on “building quality and competitiveness” and less on storage of wine lakes and distillation of surplus wine into industrial alcohol. According to the new EU strategic plan on wine, the following schemes have been approved:

• Introduction of incentives for wine makers to grub up vineyards

• Elimination of subsidies for distillation of surplus wine

• Introduction of more user-friendly labelling systems

• Modernisation of wine making practices

In response to the new challenges from the EU and the competition of the New World, the Cyprus wine industry is currently pursuing a strategy based the following axles.

First, much of the wine industry’s success depends on both human and natural competitive advantages which can contribute to the production of high quality wines with local personality using modern technology. Cyprus is blessed with a number of distinct advantages ideal for viticulture. It has a typical Mediterranean climate characterized by reliable warm sunny summers and mild winters, a variety of local microclimates which together with hilly terrain of high altitudes with numerous slope variations and types of soil result in a range of wines with great individuality. Increased vineyard plantings of premium grape varieties, especially in regions of altitude higher than 600m, provide the necessary quantities to accommodate future growth and production of premium wines from new cultivations is already underway.

Second, Cyprus is acknowledged as having the oldest appellation in the world in the name of Commandaria. Consequently, capitalising on the long tradition in winemaking and establishing the appropriate image and reputation of Cyprus wines is essential in regaining its place in the highly competitive world of wine. Cyprus is developing an appellation system.

Third, Cyprus, being a major tourist destination, is required to promote wine education among those involved in providing services to the tourist industry i.e. hotels, restaurants, taverns, wine bars, tour operators, the local consumer and even visitors and tourists. Thus, they will be able to appreciate wine of better quality, maximising the advantages of wine in capturing complementary business growth in tourism, food and lifestyle areas.

Fourth, the rather low consumption of wine by the local population offers additional opportunities for growth using appropriate educational and marketing strategies. Nowadays, wine is often preferred because of its low alcohol content. In the right quantities, it helps people relax and create a good mood without any negative consequences of drunkenness. In addition, there is wide variety of tastes to combine the right wine with each meal. Because of its soft and refined taste, wine keeps the balance between various cuisines and does not surpass them.

Finally, Cyprus is clearly an island with a lot going for it and the potential to make some truly exciting and unique wines. However, Cyprus is a small country and will never be able to compete with volume, so the strategic objective is to create the image of a boutique, wine-producing island with exclusive quality wines. Modern advances in science and technology, affecting both vine growing and wine making, ensure that the local wine industry is undergoing enormous improvement and both large and small local wineries are investing heavily in new technology and oenological equipment. There is a strong emphasis on quality wine making using state-of-the-art wineries and grape varieties adapted to local conditions. New bottling lines, stainless steel tanks, filtration systems and oak barrels are fast becoming the industry norms, resulting in enhanced purity, freshness and higher and consistent quality. Cyprus produces more than 30 million bottles of wine per annum, and is ranked number 37 in wine producing countries. The sector, without doubt, is an important segment of the local economy through agriculture, work jobs, tourism and export. Although there is a considerable lack of awareness of Cyprus wines on the international market, there has been growing recognition among professionals that Cyprus is well on the track of producing quality wines. The Cyprus wines participate in international and local competitions, judged and appreciated by the best wine tasters in the world.

Agriculture has always played a significant role in the Cypriot economy. In the past agriculture employed more than 45% of the labour force, although its contribution to the national income has never surpassed 18%. However, Cyprus has slowly transformed itself from an exporter of agricultural products and minerals to a major tourist destination and services centre. The foundations of tourism in Cyprus were already laid down back in the early 1960s. In 2007, over 2.4 million tourists visited Cyprus , mainly from Western, Central and Northern Europe . During the last few decades an alternative form of tourism, agro-tourism, was developed with the restoration and enhancement of Cypriot houses in rural areas for tourist use. This opened up an entirely new market for Cyprus targeting those who wish to experience a quieter, nature-friendly holiday away from the crowded hotels. With their natural environment, local character and traditional architecture, Cyprus ’ villages offer tourists a unique experience focusing on the traditions, culture, history and rural lifestyle. Furthermore, the Cyprus Tourist Organisation has recently organised and designated several wine routes where visitors can see the vines and vineyards, admire the various natural landscapes, and enjoy the local production. In all of the wine making regions, visitors can sample the local delicacies in villages, wineries, monasteries, and shops, each place offering its own brand of charm. Three of the most interesting are the Kilada Diarizou wine route, the Krasochoria Lemesou wine route, and the famed Koumandaria wne route.

There are at least 10 major reasons why should anyone would visit the wine routes, i.e. to: 1) taste wine, 2) gain wine knowledge, 3) experience the wine setting, (e.g. meet the winemaker; tour cellars & vineyards), 4) to be in a rural setting (beauty of vineyards; learn about farming, agro-tourism), 5) match food and “wine and culinary” tourism, 6) have fun (wine festivals and events), 7) enjoy wine culture (romance and elegance), 8) appreciate the architecture and art, 9) learn about the “green” aspects and eco-tourism, and 10) enjoy the health aspects of wine.

Today, wine is more popular that ever, consisting of an industry that stretches across the globe. Vineyards exist on many continents, from North America to Europe to Asia to Australia . The wine market has also changed with time as consumer preferences change, and the fight between quality and quantity influences the production and organization styles of the different companies that produce wine around the world. Furthermore, in the world market there is a change in consumer preferences towards the Mediterranean diet. The growing healthy image of wine being part of this diet has distanced it from other alcoholic drinks, thus pioneering wine as a universal first choice lifestyle beverage.

Although economics are vital to every industry, the wine industry sets itself apart by emphasizing the importance of the role of wine in societies, as well as its symbolic significance, to be of the utmost importance. The complexity of wine growing, the wide range of grapes and its vast, long history make it an interesting topic. It is widely accepted that the world is on the brink of an era of massive change which will render the current society unrecognisable. However, these trends favour wine provided wine producers can meet the future consumers’ demand for individualised, customised products which are natural, environmentally friendly and healthy. The future of wine belongs to products which reflect the local tradition and culture. The combined talents of the large companies and the smaller regional wineries are giving the Cyprus wine industry a bright and prosperous future.

Wine News and Information

Over the past few years, the US wine market has shown a healthy growth, expanding 20% between 2004 and 2009, but last year, the recession brought this growth to a sharp halt. Wine sales fell 3.2% during the height of the financial crisis in 2008, however the latest statistical figures suggest the market is on back on track. While the growth figures themselves may be back to pre-recession levels, the market could now follow a new direction. Penny-pinching consumers who switched down to cheaper wines may permanently change their perceptions of value wines. Domestic wines have proven to be somewhat recession-proof as unpretentious, economy-priced wines are fuelling recent sales. This may be good news for US wine growers, as well as manufacturers of boxed wines that generally fall into the value bracket. A recent survey found that nearly one in five respondents would drink boxed wine at home but would not serve it to guests. To grow the boxed wine category further, the industry will have change consumer perceptions and eliminate status anxiety.

A company created by film director Francis Ford Coppola (known for film classics like Apocalypse Now and the Godfather) is suing a packaging company over allegations that its wine bottles and screw caps were faulty. Coppola is also the creator of a lifestyle company called Francis Ford Coppola Presents (FFCP). The company has filed a lawsuit in a Californian court alleging that the packaging company is responsible for ruining 55,000 cases of wine by supplying faulty bottles and screw caps. Apparently many of the bottles were chipped, bent or uneven, and that caps were all too often unsuitable for use.

Responding to the allegations, an executive of the packaging company said that their General Manager had the “entire responsibility” of the agreement, but has now left his position to set up his own company. He added that the glass bottles and screw caps in question were manufactured in China “in accordance, agreement and collaboration with FFC executives”.

Monolithos Monthly News

Maintaining a vineyard is a year-round labour of love for grape farmers. In March the soil must be properly prepared, including cultivation and the addition of fertilizer (10-52-10 or 20-20-20) which give the vines a needed boost. The roots of the vine crops are close to the surface of the soil, so it is important not to cultivate too deeply or too close to the plants. Cultivation must be just deep enough to cut the weeds off below the surface of the soil, and this continues for as long as possible without injuring the vines, usually when the vines begin to spread between the rows. When cultivation is no longer possible, the large weeds are pulled by hand. Cultivation should be started as soon as the soil is dry enough in spring and continue until the end of April. Frequent shallow cultivation will kill weeds before they become a problem.

Bottling is the main activity in the winery. Last year’s vintage is cleared, filtered and stabilised, ready for bottling. Most of the 2008 production has been bottled and aged and ready for tasting. If at any time you are passing near the village of Pachna and wish to visit the winery or purchase any of our products, Martin Wood will be pleased to meet and assist you at his “Fig Tree Villa” in Pachna, so do not hesitate to phone him at 25-816212 or 99-165995. We thank you for your continued support.

Take care and remember:

“Wine rejoices the heart of man, and joy is the mother of all virtues.”