Sunday 10 February 2008

February 2008

Dear friends of Monolithos

This month we continue our discussion on the subject of wine storing. There are two stages of storing wine: in bulk in a stainless steel, a wooden cask (barrel) or other container, and in the bottle. The first is entirely the job of the winemaker, and the second may also be partly under the winemaker's control. But bottle storing, particularly after leaving the winery, is more the job of the merchant or, increasingly, the final purchaser of the wine.

Wine really is alive because it changes and adapts in response to its environment. How it is treated will determine how fast or slow it will age and how it will turn out in the end. The useful life of wine depends on the grape varieties used in the wine, where it was made, the maturity of the wine (how much time has passed since vintage date), whether or not it's a premium wine (i.e. designed to age) and wine storage conditions. The fundamental goal of wine storage is to preserve it. With proper storage, many wines improve with time. On the other hand, improper storage can ruin a good wine in a few days.

There are many factors that can affect how wine ages and we cannot explore all of them in a short article. The information presented here is aiming at providing general guidance for anyone wishing to enhance his knowledge on the subject. There are a few simple principles that need to be understood in order to select proper wine storage conditions. Wine is a living thing, so temperature, humidity, light and vibration among other environmental factors strongly affect the wine’s life cycle, quality and character. The challenge is to control the variables that affect wine storage and avoid harmful changes. The variables needing to be controlled are temperature, humidity, light, air, position, vibration, cleanliness and ventilation.

Temperature is the most important factor. The optimum temperature is 50-55°F (10-12°C). However, any constant temperature within 40-65°F (5-18°C) will do. More important than the actual temperature is the degree and rapidity of fluctuation the wine is subjected to. A slow change of temperature of up to ten or so degrees between winter and summer is not a big problem. But this kind of fluctuation on a daily or weekly basis will cause damage to the wines and age them prematurely.

Ageing wine is a series of different chemical reactions between various compounds and the minute quantities of oxygen allowed into the bottle through the cork. These reactions are easily affected by temperature changes taking place in the environment. Wine hardly ages at all if stored below about 10ºC (50ºF). Place it at 25°C (78ºF), and an age-worthy wine that would normally require 10 years of careful ageing, may be past its prime in just a few months. This is not to say the colder the better. Bottles stored in too cold a temperature can develop deposits or other suspensions in the wine. Anything over about 70°F (21°C) will slowly give a "cooked" flavour to a wine, and really warm conditions of over 77°F (25°C) means that the wines are in grave danger of rapid deterioration. It could cause the wine to expand to a volume larger than the bottle it is stored in, and either the cork will push out or the wine will leak right past the cork. Consequently, temperature stability is the critical factor of wine storage. For wine to age in a proper manner, temperature fluctuations must be minimized in both magnitude and frequency. Finally, keep in mind that white wines are affected far more by temperature problems than red wines.

Humidity is also an important factor. Low humidity can dry the cork to the point that oxygen can seep in and come into contact with the wine. In other words, a dry cork will shrink, crack, lose its elasticity and thereby allow air to get into the bottle. The problem is made worse if low humidity is accompanied by temperature fluctuations. A dry atmosphere is an enemy of the natural cork seal. Low humidity combined with a defective cork results in the wine moving out of the bottle and air naturally moving into the bottle. Moderate humidity is important so as to keep the corks in good resilient condition, thereby preventing them from shrinking. The ideal humidity for any type of cellar or storage room is 70%, however anywhere between 50% and 80% is acceptable. High humidity levels retain moisture inside the bottle, thus preventing evaporation through the cork. However, humidity levels that are too high can cause the labels to go mouldy and allow micro-organisms to grow which can age the wine prematurely or even spoil it. Screw-capped bottles are not sensitive to humidity.

Humidity and temperature are the most important factors when it comes to wine storage, but also great care and attention must be given regarding light, air, bottle position, environmental off smells and excessive vibration.

Light, especially natural sunlight and fluorescent, can affect the wine’s ageing process. Ultraviolet light will damage wine by causing the degradation of the otherwise stable organic compounds, especially the tannins found in wine. These organic compounds contribute to the aroma, flavour and structure of the wine. Without them the wine would appear flat and thin. It is important to keep wines out of direct sunlight, which is one reason many wines, especially reds, are distributed in tinted bottles. Naturally, clear bottles are most susceptible to this problem. However, the typical green-glass wine-bottle, while offering some protection, is not sufficient to block all the offending radiation. This is why it is necessary to limit wine's exposure to sunlight and fluorescent light, or simply keep your wine storage area dark. It should be noted too, that incandescent or sodium vapour lights are better for a cellar that fluorescent lighting. White wines are usually the most susceptible to sunlight.

Wine stored in bottles has a certain amount of air space (ullage). To ensure proper ageing, all wine bottles have some air in them to begin with. What’s important is to ensure the cork remains moist so no additional air in allowed to enter the bottle. That’s why it is advisable to store your wine horizontally to keep the cork from cracking or shrinking, thus admitting unwanted air. Some leakage will not spoil the wine, but excessive leakage will create additional air space in the bottle. Over time, this will contribute to the browning of the wine. Nothing spoils good wine faster than too much air. This not only causes it to lose freshness but, more importantly, it causes the wine to oxidize which results in premature ageing and before long and the wine eventually turns to vinegar. Fortunately, glass is impermeable to air and a good cork will keep air exchange to a minimum for years.

The effect of vibrations on wine is controversial. Some purists insist that vibrations affect flavour and bouquet. They are of the opinion that shock or agitation to ageing wine bottles can disturb the sediment and affect the ageing process. They claim that constant vibration from machinery or a nearby road disturbs a red wine's sediment and can be harmful to all wine. But there is no clear evidence that suggests that vibration is an important issue for wines, even for those that do develop sediment. In any case, noise and vibration is not commonly a problem in the average home. Once a wine is laid down, it should stay there until it is opened. Letting the wine sit in a quiet area for a few weeks before serving will allow the sediment to settle.

One additional factor to avoid is storing other items with very strong odours near the wine. There have been many reports of wines picking up the aromas of items stored nearby. The storage space should be free from smells and debris. Since some air will always get back into the wine through the cork, the molecules that make up that odour can, and will, get into the wine over time. Highly volatile chemical compounds are particularly harmful. Some odours to look out for include solvents (i.e. fresh paint, chlorine and cleaning solutions), or various aromatic food products like onions, garlic, etc. Consequently, wine needs to be kept in an odour-free environment. Proper ventilation will help with this problem and keep the storage area from giving the wine a musty taste.

Wine Storage Tips:

. Avoid purchasing wines bottles that have been standing for several months

. Do not choose bottles in which the level of the liquid is lower than normal (2 cm from the bottle neck).

. Avoid buying bottles that have been exposed to the sun or to an artificial light bulb for a long time.

. Never leave wine in the trunk of your car when parked in the sun.

. Stack wines on shelves made of wood, tile or cement because they resist temperature changes better than metal.

. Store fortified wines standing, but stack all other wines horizontally with their labels facing upward.

. Remember that when wine bottles are stored next to one another, their temperatures remain stable.

. Store wines at a constant temperature between 40ºF and 65ºF (5-18ºC);

. Try to store your wine in areas away from heat – not on top of the refrigerator or in the cabinet above the range.

. Wine that is too cold can develop deposits, sediments or suspensions.

. White wines are more affected by temperature problems than red wines.

. Store sparkling wines and dry whites and rosés near the floor where the temperature is cooler.

. A relative humidity of 50% to 80% is acceptable, but 70% is preferred.

Do not allow direct sunlight in the cellar and keep the lighting dim so the wine does not prematurely age.

. Ultraviolet light can give wine unpleasant odours and ruin the taste, so incandescent or sodium vapour lights are better than fluorescent and UV lighting.

. Sparkling and white wines are the most sensitive to light.

. Keep the cellar free from smells because they can enter the bottle through the cork and contaminate the wine.

. Store wines in a location where you do not have to move them around to reach a specific bottle. Once a wine is laid down, it should stay there until it is opened.

. Whenever you carry wine in your car during warm weather months, it is best to keep the bottles in an upright position and keep them with you in the front of the car, not in the trunk. Also, do not leave them in a closed car which is parked in the sun. With excessive temperature, the wine and air inside the bottle will expand and possibly cause leakage of the wine past the cork.

. Wines meant for consumption within a few weeks should be kept cool and out of direct sunlight.

. A larger bottle has a smaller ratio of air to wine so when you can, purchase or use a larger bottle. Once the bottle has been opened and if you don’t expect to consume the remainder in a few days, it’s suggested that you transfer the leftover wine to a smaller bottle.

. Ideal places to store your wine if you do not have a cellar: Under the stairs; in a dark cupboard; under the bed; in the garage if heat and odours are not strong.

Wine News and Information

Based on various scientific surveys, we know that temperatures will continue to become warmer on average between now and 2100, and that will have a direct impact on the growing of grapes that the various established wine regions can produce. It could also change the typical characteristics that we associate with various wine-growing regions.

The topic of global warming was on the lips of everyone at the Adelaide technical conference, in part because Australia’s wine industry has already seen the impact of global warming. High temperatures during the 2007 harvest caused a drastic drop in production. Many experts predict that drought conditions could well affect many of the more prestigious wine-growing regions of the world. Because of rapid warming in the past 30 years, the earth is approaching and will soon surpass the warmest temperatures in the past 12,000 years – since the end of the last ice age.

News stories about global warming indicated that the Napa Valley is destined to collapse as a fine wine region. Stories implied that the area would soon be a desert that would make only simple, hot-climate wines. The Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences has said that unless wine makers intervene with plant-protection systems, the total area suitable for wine growing in the USA could shrink by up to 80% by the end of the century. Even so, most studies on climate change have not been very specific about how a projected 1 to 3ºC increase in the average temperature by the end of the century will affect grape growing. The assumption is that increased solar radiation and the possible reduction in available water could be disastrous.

One possible effect of increased daytime temperatures, when that occurs, could well be accelerated sugar accumulation in berries, which could call for harvesting grapes at higher and higher potential alcohol levels with consequently a greater need for alcohol-removal techniques. And still it may be that certain grapes will be harvested that have a green, vegetative character. No one is quite sure what to make of the global climate change at this point, but almost all agree that it’s a huge challenge to wine makers around the world. And it appears as if it will become even more challenging.

According to the French wine company WineSight, over the past year or so, brands for women have focused on making wine lower in calories, lower in alcohol and lower in flavour, despite the fact that more and more women have become interested in trading up to a higher quality glass of wine as a well-deserved indulgence. British women like to treat themselves to a delicious glass or two, and are impressed by taste, rather than wine snobbery.

We’ve all heard the statistics pointing to women buying and consuming more wine than men in many countries around the world. Studies have also proven that many women prefer smooth, supple and subtle wines offering a delicate combination of flavours, while men, especially before reaching “expert” levels, tend to prefer full-bodied wines.

For women, the scent of the wine is crucial, while men focus on the palate. Women tend to seek the full wine experience: who we’re with, what we’re eating, and how we feel. Yet, the market continues to be dominated by brands aimed at men, alongside a handful of wines for women, many of which fall short of the mark when it comes to style, taste and finesse.

Since the company’s arrival in Great Britain in November 2007, WineSight has developed relationships with some of the leading bars and restaurants in London, which are keen to capitalise on women’s increasing interest in higher quality wines on their night out.

WineSight plans to be involved in a series of events more specifically dedicated to women, from fashion shows to networking lunches and business conferences.

Monolithos Monthly News

In the vineyard, pruning started early in January. Pruning, which is quite simply the cutting back of dead wood and superfluous plant growth, is the single most important step in vineyard management. Prior to coming into its winter dormancy, each vine sets its buds for the upcoming year. The number of buds set is governed by the growing patterns of the past season, and it is up to the farmer to prune accordingly so that the vine is not stressed and produces a healthy harvest. Vines start to stir in February and, by necessity, winter is the best time to sculpt or shape the vines in preparation for the upcoming growing season (buds break in mid May) and establish the vineyard’s crop potential. Pruning saves a cultivated vine from self-destruction. Left alone, it would simply reproduce until it killed itself. The seemingly aggressive act of pruning allows the vine to maintain a healthy vigour and achieve its best crop potential.

In the life cycle of a vineyard, vines reach their prime in their tenth year. They are now in their most vigorous and productive phase. Pruning consistently follows the patterns established in previous years. At year fifteen, a vine has reached full maturity; growth is regular and the plant is mellowed and balanced. It’s at this point we can push a little more, cut back more severely to force the crop down and produce a top-tier wine. A vineyard is not unlike a garden. Spectacular results require patience, attention and careful nurturing.

All eight Monolithos premium wines are available for tasting or purchasing, so if at any time you are passing near the village of Pachna and wish to visit the winery, Martin Wood will be pleased to meet and assist you at his “Fig Tree Villa” in Pachna, so do not hesitate to phone him at 25-816212 or 99-165995.

Regards from all of us here at Monolithos and always remember the words of Samuel Butler (17th century):

“All love at first, like generous wine – ferments and frets until ‘tis fine”

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