Sunday 12 April 2009

April 2009 - Cyprus Wine Blog - Monolithos Shiraz

In this month’s newsletter, we will be introducing Monolithos’ new Syrah/Shiraz wine. The addition of this wine is a decision taken after several years of experimentation with this grape, particularly as part of the Ayios Stephanos blend wine. We hope that by reading this short introduction on the history and capabilities of this varietal vine, you will appreciate our decision to select Syrah and develop this new wine for you.

The first point of clarification is that the names Syrah (SEE-rah) and Shiraz (Shi-RAHZ) are commonly used for the same grape. In Europe and the Old World, the grape has always been called Syrah, but for some reason, the Australians and most New World countries decided to call it Shiraz , after the city in Iran where the grape supposedly originated.

Syrah is a noble grape that has been around since Roman times. It was once thought to have originated in Persia , but recent research indicates the grape is a native of France ’s Rhone River Valley . There are many legends of Syrah’s origins.

  • Some have claimed that it originated in Shiraz , a city in Persia/Iran and travelled to France by way of Greece . In one version of this myth, the Phoceans (Greeks of Asia Minor) supposedly brought Syrah/Shiraz to their colony around Marseilles France (then known as Massalia), which was founded around 600 BC.

  • Another legend of the grape variety’s origin, based on the name Syrah, is that it was brought from Syracuse by the legions of Roman Emperor Probus some time after AD 280. This legend however lacks documentary evidence and is inconsistent with ampelographic findings.

  • In another version, Syrah/Shiraz was brought into southern France by a returning crusader, Guy De Sterimberg. He became a hermit and developed a vineyard on a steep hill where he lived in the Rhone River Valley . He is considered to be the creator of the Hermitage wine. However, it is highly doubtful if any crusader would have journeyed as far east as Persia , since the crusades were focused on the Holy Land .

Even before the advent of DNA typing of grapes, there were several doubts about the Syrah legend. Before 1998, it was not known with certainty where it had originated. In that year, a study was conducted by a research group in the Department of Viticulture and Enology at the University of California using DNA typing and extensive grape reference material from the viticultural research station in Montpellier , France . It was concluded that Syrah was the offspring of the grape varieties Dureza (father) and Mondeuse Blanche (mother). Dureza is a dark-skinned grape variety from the Ardèche region in France that has all but disappeared from the vineyards, and the preservation of such varieties is a speciality of Montpellier . The DNA typing leaves no room for doubt on this matter, and the numerous other hypotheses of the grape’s origin which have been forwarded during the years all completely lack support in form of documentary evidence or ampelographic investigations. Most likely they seem to have been based primarily or solely on the name or synonyms of the variety. The DNA information does however not reveal how old the grape variety is.

The popularity of the Syrah grape in the area of France ’s Rhone River Valley goes back to medieval times and since then, it has been considered a very important base for the best wines of this region. The grapes were of course used for the Hermitage wines which have become known as some of the world’s greatest and most age-worthy wines. In the 18th and the first half of the 19th centuries, most Hermitage wines that left France did so as a blending component for Bordeaux wines. While Spanish and Algerian wines are also known to have been used for this purpose, top Bordeaux châteaux would use Hermitage to improve their produce, especially in weaker vintages. In the 1650s, South Africa was the first country outside France to plant Syrah, but it has never been more than a minor variety there.

In Australia , it has become one of the most widely planted grapes. Syrah was introduced to Australia in 1831 by the Scotsman James Busby, often considered “the Father of Australian viticulture” who brought in several varieties of vines from Europe . By the 1860s, Syrah was very well established. Today, the Shiraz grape is the most widely planted red grape variety in Australia where it is often blended with Cabernet Sauvignon. During the last two decades, Syrah has enjoyed increasing popularity, and plantings of the variety have expanded significantly in both old and new locations. Syrah is now the world’s 7th most grown variety.

The dark-skinned Syrah grape has found a very happy home in some hot Old and New World countries including Cyprus where the generous amount of sun allows the grapes to develop a much more intense, fruit-forward personality. The differences in the soil quality as well as the changes in the slope of the terrain tend to produce different styles of Syrah wine. In exceptionally warm regions, the wine is often blended with other varieties. Other appellations, primarily mountainous ones, tend to produce varietal-based wines that can stand on their own. In warmer climates like Australia , the grape produces wines that are sweeter and riper tasting. In cooler climates like the Rhone valley of France , it often has more pepper and spice aromas and flavours.

The most wonderful asset about this grape, which is becoming more and more prevalent, is that it develops different expressions from different corners of the world, and all of them are big, luscious, gorgeous wines. Typical favours relative to regional climates are:

Cooler-climate Syrah/Shiraz: Flavours – red currant, strawberry, raspberry, green olive, mint, and white pepper.

Warmer-climate Syrah/Shiraz: Flavours – riper fruit, black pepper, black cherry, blackberry, black currant, liquorice, dark chocolate and smoke.

The heat-loving Syrah grape variety has adapted well to both the warm venues of Cyprus and it is particularly popular to those interested in robust and heavy red wines. The Syrah grape as cultivated in Cyprus shows distinct personality traits depending on where it is grown. The area of Pachna located on the south western hills of the Troodos mountain range produces a concentrated, spicy, bold, fleshy and relatively soft wine. Whether in France , Australia or Cyprus , this grape has shown it can create some fabulous wines in the right conditions. It is important to find the right site for planting and to restrict the growth of the vine and its crop to achieve the best results. Syrah grape generally ripens early in August, and its small clusters and small berries produce juice with concentrated flavours and significant tannin. During vinification it behaves better in open-top tanks, a process that exposes the juice to more oxygen and thereby softens the tannins. This is a grape variety that tempts winemakers to be more adventurous and there are several versions around the world.

Pairing food and wine isn’t as simple as it used to be. In the past, red wine has been paired with meat and pasta, white wine with poultry and seafood. Given the variety of ethnic foods that are readily available, the numerous cooking styles and food combinations, as well as the availability of wines from around the world, this rule no longer applies.

Shiraz is great for grilled meats or veggies, wild game, richly flavoured red meats, lamb, duck, goose, sausages, beef stew, meat lover’s pizza and hard cheeses. It goes well with steaks and BBQs and will accentuate racy, hot spices in Indian, Mexican and other oriental foods. It is also quite suitable as a stand-up, social or party wine.

Shiraz can be drunk immediately, but can also be aged for up to five years or more, depending on how tannic it is. Generally, Shiraz is never a “light” wine and expresses the different terroirs where it is grown. Around the world, these wines have won many fans are rich, complex, full bodied and has one of the highest recommended wine serving temperatures at 18°C (65°F). This makes Shiraz claim the warmest temperature a wine should be served at.

The main thing to keep in mind is that the Syrah grape is becoming more and more popular because it gives us what we want, from the low end to the high end. The vines produce healthy grapes, and good wine-making techniques can result in a great win. Explore the grape by buying a few bottles similarly priced from deferent producers, regions or countries. That will give you an opportunity to taste the differences, and decide which you like best.

Introducting Monolithos Syrah/ Shiraz . This year, Monolithos Winery produced for the first time a rich-flavoured and full-bodied Syrah/Shiraz wine from selected local vineyards of Pachna. Situated at an elevation of 750m on the southern sloping hills of the Troodos mountain range, the vine-growing area of Pachna is blessed with hot summers moderated by Mediterranean maritime breezes, allowing the grapes to ripen fully. This heat-loving grape variety has adapted well and has found a very happy home in this area. The relatively poor limestone and well-drained soil keeps yield low, thus producing a rich wine with complex flavours. The generous amount of sun allows the Syrah grapes to develop an intense, fruit-forwarding rich character and unique local personality. Made with passion and expert craftsmanship, Monolithos Syrah is a beautifully balanced wine combining a full flavour with a refined elegance.

Wine News and Information

It has emerged that several hundred thousand hectolitres of Vin de Pays d’Oc was fraudulently sold and exported to the US over the last four years. According to reports, between 2005 and 2008, over 120,00hl (hectolitres) of falsely-labelled Pinot Noir was sold every year to the US via commercial and wine companies in the Aude region. The fraud was spotted by the regional wine office, which works in conjunction with the local anti-fraud agency, when it became clear there was a discrepancy in the figures of Pinot Noir production and export. The Aude is part of the wider Languedoc-Roussillon area, which produces only 50,000hl of Pinot Noir per year. According to southern French newspaper La Depeche, the fraudulent wine was sold by winemakers and cooperatives to the negotiator who in turn sold the wine to Sieur d’Arques for export to the US . It is not clear at which stage the fraud occurred. Citing an informant, the newspaper said the profit margins for those concerned were “huge”. Pinot Noir fetches double the standard price for red wine from the region.

The top sommeliers will compete for the title of UK Sommelier of the Year on 29 April at the Tate Modern in London . The competition is organised by the Academy of Food & Wine and there are 15 contenders. The next part of the competition will feature a written test, a wine tasting, and a marketing question which contestants must answer in front of a panel. The three finalists will then compete in a simulated restaurant situation in front of an audience of 150. Last year’s UK Sommelier of the Year was Gearoid Devaney, head sommelier at Tom Aikens in London .

Wine drinkers are beginning to accept and purchase the box wines. There are serious French, Italian and Australian wines being sold and drunk in this highly practical format – high-tech sealed plastic bags that keep wine fresh for up to a month after opening. Low-end bulk wines still dominate the box market. But there are a few forward-thinkers, most notably Black Box (which has won numerous awards), putting some reasonably tasty wine inside cardboard boxes. However, the mere mention of wine in a box sends most serious wine drinkers into fits of laughter. Or disgust. Are we just being snobs about the whole thing? Is the packaging influencing us more than what is actually in it? But most importantly, could trained chefs actually tell the difference between a boxed wine and a comparably-priced bottled wine in a blind test? The answer is yes – and no.

In a recent informal wine testing exercise, several chefs and a certified sommelier were asked to take on the challenge. They tasted four box wines. What become immediately clear was that most participants who know anything about wine could tell right off that the wines were “bulk wines”, or wines that aren’t from a particular appellation or vineyard and are blended with grapes from different regions. In other words, they knew these weren’t cult wine.

But all agreed there are times and places for some good box wines for everyday sips for barbecues, parties and casual get-togethers. So maybe we should stop being such snobs and just drink what appeals to us.

Monolithos Monthly News

During the month of March, the new wines went through clarification and cold stabilisation before final filtration and bottling. Throughout the above-mentioned processes, Monolithos Winery followed the philosophy of controlled intervention and the use of minimum treatment possible. Every stage of wine making is important; however the handling of the late stages plays a critical role and determines how well the wine quality will be preserved. So far, the bottling of the regular Monolithos white, rose and red wines has been completed. In the area of red wines, our new Shiraz is currently undergoing bottle-ageing before it becomes available for purchase early in the summer.

Of course all our wines are available for tasting or purchasing from your regular point of sale or directly from us. If at any time you are passing near the village of Pachna and wish to visit the winery or sample any of our products, Martin Wood will be pleased to meet and assist you at his “Fig Tree Villa” in Pachna, so do not hesitate to phone him at 25-816212 or 99-165995.

Regards from all of us here at Monolithos and always remember:

“One barrel of wine can work more miracles than a church-full of saints”

Italian proverb

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