The Cyprus Wine Blog - Monolithos Wine Dimensions: February 2011

Technology in the winery doesn’t ensure great wine. Great wines start with the vineyard.




Climate is the most important factor when it comes to quality wine grapes and grapevine longevity. Different grape varieties thrive on certain climate and soil conditions. Climate conditions determine to a great extent the variety of grapes that can be successfully grown in a given area. Hot and cold climates can negatively affect wine quality. Different grapes, and the different wine styles or types that can be made from them, need specific climatic elements to succeed. Old World grape producers go even further, referring to the terroir of a wine region when they characterise its suitability for particular grape varietals.



There is no doubt that individual locations for vineyards have a great bearing on the type of grape most suited to the growing conditions available and on the style of wines that can be made from the grapes. Many sunny days in which to ripen will mean that the grapes have higher sugar levels, and those which receive too much water will bloat and have less flavour.



We normally look at climate and weather in terms of wind, rain, sun, fog, and humidity, but climate and weather are two different things. Climate encompasses the statistics of temperature, humidity, atmospheric pressure, wind, rainfall, atmospheric particle count and other meteorological elements in a given region over a long period of time. Weather is what happens from day to day or, in the case of viticulture, over a single vintage. Weather is one of the most critical elements in the quality of the grape. It defines the growing season, and throughout the year, everything that happens is important and is reflected in the bottle of wine that is produced. The difference between climate and weather is usefully summarized by the popular phrase, “climate is what you expect, weather is what you get.” The three most important meteorological parameters directly influencing grape growing are sunlight, temperature, and humidity.



Light and shade play a central part in fruit ripening and fruit quality. In order to produce fruit, grapevines need sunlight. Leaves require light for photosynthesis and bunches need light to promote good colour and enhance aroma and flavour development. Shade limits a vine’s ability to grow buds and/or cause flowering buds to simply drop to the ground. Grapes ripen as a result of photosynthesis, the binding together of water and CO2 from the atmosphere to form starch. This is accomplished with the help of light energy from the sun absorbed by chlorophyll in the vine and leaves. Grapevines will of course grow in shaded areas, but sunlight is the catalyst for fruit bearing vines! Generally speaking, wines made from fruit in shaded canopies have reduced sugar, colour and phenolics.



Canopy management techniques should ensure that maximum light interception is achieved without the risk of sunburnt fruit. Maximum sunlight exposure can lead to sunburned berries, and zero exposure can lead to diseased berries. During the annual growth cycle of the grapevine, excessive shading can reduce the success rate of bud formation, bud-break and fruit set as well as the size and quantity of grape berries on a cluster. Some shading is beneficial, especially in very hot and sunny climates, to prevent heat stress, however excessive amounts of shading can have a negative impact on grape development. As a photosynthetic plant, grapevines need access to sunlight in order to complete their physiological processes. Sunlight duration acts mainly by controlling sugar in grapes and therefore potential wine alcohol content at a given stage of physiological ripening. In practice, the relative contributions of sunlight and temperature are hard to distinguish, because low temperatures and low sunlight hours tend to go together. Poor seasons in cool climates are usually both sunless and cold.



Regions with unlimited sunlight hours and intensity are nevertheless not necessarily at an advantage because they commonly suffer from excessive temperature variability and water stress. But in the absence of these adverse factors, ample sunlight does appear to be universally beneficial.



The timing of the sunlight is also important. Studies show that the most critical period for quality is around the start of ripening (August in most European regions). Good conditions then assure an ample reserve of sugar in the vine, both for early conversion in the leaves and berries into flavour and aroma compounds. Ultimately, a vine needs both sunlight and warm temperatures for the fruit to ripen effectively.



Another significant concern is the day-to-day variability in temperature. Temperature is one of the most important parameters of grape maturation and one of the essential factors that trigger it. Temperature affects all stages of grape production, from bud burst to grape maturation. To fully ripen, grapes need a sufficient amount of heat during the growing season. Many of the vine’s metabolic processes will stop below 10º Celsius (50º Fahrenheit). At the same time, winter temperatures must be cold enough to encourage the vine to go dormant. Spring frosts are a risk in many areas. Like so many aspects of quality grape growing regions, moderation is crucial.



The things we taste and smell in wine and which we call terroir are created in biochemical processes during the development and ripening of the grape. These processes are strongly influenced by temperature. Each individual process in grape development has an optimum temperature where it proceeds the fastest. Above or below that optimum temperature slows down the process. But it isn’t as simple as whether faster or slower is better. The better growing regions have a consistent temperature pattern. Vines don’t like abrupt heat waves or cold spells that disturb the processes of fruit development. An abrupt heat wave can damage leaves and fruit and stun the vine.



When grapes are ripening in a vineyard, sugar is being produced in the leaves, transported to the berries, and then stored. At the same time, flavours, elements of aroma and taste are developing in the berry. The ripening regarding sugar accumulation is pretty straightforward. Sugar is being made and stored until the berry has a level of 24 to 25 Brix (unit of measure for the sugar content of grapes, equivalent to 11.5% to 14% alcohol). At that point, there is a programmed, physiological process where the berry shuts down and begins to dehydrate and collapse. In the warm, sunny island of Cyprus, sugar can accumulate rapidly and present a difficulty to the winemaker.



The ripening regarding flavour is less straightforward. Some flavours are produced and increase during ripening like aromas and soft tannins, whilst other flavours diminish like acidity, bitterness and vegetal aromas. In ideal ripening, this flavour development happens before the berry gets too high in sugar or shuts down. So that means that ideally, during ripening, there is a need for warm sunny days and cool nights.



Grapes ripen both during the day and at night. In regions that have hot nights, grapes ripen quickly with low acid, poor colour, and reduced flavour development. This makes for wine of ordinary quality. Grapes are better for wine when ripening metabolism is slowed by cool night time temperatures. This allows for gradual ripening, more flavour development, and promotes a good sugar acid balance.



An average mean temperature during ripening strongly influences potential wine style. Average conditions during ripening cannot be estimated directly from raw climatic statistics, because they depend in part on when ripening occurs. That, in turn, depends on the heat requirements of individual vine varieties to reach maturity. Some mature early and have a relatively low total heat requirement to reach this stage. These will ripen successfully in cool climates, and in hot climates ripen very early. Late maturing varieties need a long, warm growing season and a high heat total to ripen at all.



Individual grape varieties differ in their optimum ripening temperatures for quality. Many of the early maturing varieties are best when ripened under relatively cool conditions. Some of these berries are very sensitive to heat, particularly red wine varieties. Such varieties nevertheless need warmth during ripening to give enough colour and body for red wines, a contradiction which explains their limited and specialized climatic adaptations. Other equally early maturing varieties, usually for white wine, can tolerate considerable heat during ripening and can give good quality across a wide range of climates.



Throughout the world, high quality wine regions experience relatively similar temperatures. Most of these regions are between the 30th and 50th parallels in either hemisphere. Since temperature has such a profound impact on acidity in grapes, the grape variety must be matched to the temperature of the region. Fuller bodied grapes generally like warmer temperatures. These include Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. Wines made from these varietals have assertive flavours and complex textures on the palate. Lighter bodied grapes thrive in cooler temperatures. These grapes include Pinot Noir and Riesling.



Whereas potential wine style depends broadly on the average mean temperature during ripening, quality appears to be related also to short-term, day-to-day temperature variability. If the ripening temperature is less variable, the wine quality is likely to be better. Highly variable temperatures result in greater damage, both by frosts after budburst and by extremes of heat in summer. Research has shown that whilst warm temperatures speed the ripening process, temperatures in excess of 33ºC slow down photosynthesis and subsequently berry ripening. Conversely, very cool temperatures also slow down the ripening process.



Humidity is the amount of water vapour in the air. Relative humidity is the amount of water vapour in the air at a specific temperature compared to the maximum water vapour that the air is able to hold without it condensing. Relative humidity is normally highest in the morning and lowest in the early afternoon. Humidity, coupled by temperature and wind, determines evaporation and therefore moisture demands on the vine. Water and humidity play important roles in the development of the vine with their presence or lack of impacting photosynthesis, new plant shoot growth, as well as the development of grape berries. Without a doubt, humidity can cause many problems in a vineyard. Very high humid conditions favour disease development. Humidity can however influence yield and wine quality beneficially, provided that there is enough sunlight and diseases are absent or controlled.



Strong evaporative demands place the vines under water stress which, in extreme cases, can cause leaf loss and substantial collapse of vine metabolism. Sites that have high evaporation rates and low relative humidity have higher transpiration rates (evaporation of water off the leaf surface) and may therefore require irrigation.



Successful viticulturists have a good understanding of their soils, monitor soil moisture and understand the importance of irrigation for quality grape production. Excessive irrigation and high fertiliser use will encourage a dense canopy that will not only shade fruit but will create a microclimate within the vineyard that encourages the spread of diseases. Virtually all of the world’s acknowledged great table wines come from regions with moderately high relative humidity and low evaporation. This is partly because of the lack of stress and generally restricted temperature variability.



All aspects of weather and climate that pertain to terroir contribute to the vigour and health of a grape vine. Factors like wind, rain, sun, and humidity, directly affect a vine’s soil moisture requirements and moisture levels in the soil. Weather does not define terroir, but it certainly affects the way a wine tastes. In a given vintage you can have frosts, heat spells, precipitation during fruit set or harvest, and other severe weather changes that define a vintage.



In general, the more consistent the temperature, the more consistently grapes will ripen. This lack of fluctuation is referred to as equability. Two factors that aid equability are proximity to large bodies of water and thermal inversion created by the slope of the hills on which the vineyards are planted. Finally, the temperature swing between winter and summer also influences quality. Late-ripening grapes, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, do not tolerate a sudden drop in autumn temperature very well and can produce herbaceous, unripe grapes as a result.



The properties of climate have a pronounced effect on the process of wine production, and climate therefore sets the parameters for the selection of grape variety. In general, the best wines come from the best quality grapes. Many types of wine grapes are grown all over the world, and the climate of a particular region can have an enormous effect on the creation of the distinctive personality and taste of the finished wine. With appropriate site selection, Mediterranean climates have some distinct advantages for viticulture over uniform or summer-rainfall climates. Sunshine is mostly more reliable and generous. There is less risk of excessive rainfall during ripening. As a result of both, the risk of fungal diseases is generally lower. And to the extent that many Mediterranean climates have the disadvantages of low humidity and high temperatures during the ripening period, precise vineyard site selection can help to minimize these disadvantages, by seeking out coastal or high-altitude sites, for example.



Wine News and Information



* China’s wine consumption and wine production are set to increase exponentially over the next four years. France, Italy and Spain remain the world’s biggest producers of wine, accounting for just under half of the world’s production of 3bn cases. However by 2014, these countries’ production is expected to decline by 1% to 7%. This is due mainly to more efficient management of vine land, grubbing up of unprofitable vineyards, and concentration on quality by reduction of yields. The only countries to increase production will be Argentina by over 13%, Chile by 8%, South Africa by 7%, and China. While the US will be the world’s biggest consumer of wine by 2012, with over 300m cases taking over from Italy at the top of the table, the UK is the world’s largest importing nation both by value and volume, with Britons spending more in total on still and sparkling wine than the French. As consumers, Russia, the US and China are expected to show the most growth over the next four years, increasing consumption by 20.7m cases in China, 27m cases in the US and 5.5m cases in Russia. Of the 3bn cases, or 36bn bottles, produced worldwide, a quarter is exported. Vinexpo estimates that one in four bottles is drunk in a country in which it was not made. This figure is expected to increase.



* The International Wine and Spirit Research (IWSR) figures showed a healthy outlook for the UK, which has overtaken France for consumer spending on wine and consolidated its position as the world’s biggest wine importing market by value and volume. Wine consumption in the UK rose 1.1% in 2010 as opposed to 2009, with the total amount consumed rising to 147.12 million 9-litre cases. The rate of consumption in the UK is expected to increase by a further 2.9% during 2010-2014. Consumers are trading up to over £6.15 per bottle making it the second largest consumer market worldwide, ahead of France but behind the US. But the average price of a bottle of wine is stable at around £5.21 and is expected to remain at that level for the next five years. White wine is the UK’s favourite colour accounting for nearly 45% of wine consumption. Consumption of rosé wines, fuelled by consumers switching from red to rosé, saw UK sales increase 93% in 2005-2009. Rosé is forecast to rise by a further 11.5% during 2010-2014. Sparkling wine consumption also grew 16.1% from 2005-2009. It is expected to rise to 12% in 2014, according to the data. Emerging markets in Asia and Eastern Europe will continue to prosper by 2014, but these are not expected to match the top western markets in terms of value and volume.



* A study appeared in the January issue of the journal “Diabetes” which reveals that drinking a moderate amount of alcohol may have its health benefits, and lowering the risk of Type 2 diabetes could be one of them. Researchers followed 38,031 men who had not been diagnosed with diabetes or cancer and who were part of the Health Professionals Follow-Up study. Changes in their drinking habits over the years were noted. After four years, those who were light drinkers at the start of the study (drinking zero to 4.9 grams a day) and increased their alcohol consumption to moderate levels (5 to 29.9 grams a day) had a decidedly lower risk of Type 2 diabetes compared with light drinkers whose habits did not change. Consistent moderate drinkers also had a substantially lower risk of Type 2 diabetes than did stable light drinkers. All study participants who were currently moderate drinkers were linked with at least a 25% lower risk compared with stable light drinkers, regardless of how much anyone drank at the beginning of the study. There were no additional cuts in risk for Type 2 diabetes for those who were light or moderate drinkers at the start of the study and then increased their consumption to 30 or more grams per day. But before you reach for the wine opener, note that the study authors wrote, “Decisions and recommendations about changes in alcohol consumption should, as with alcohol consumption in general, consider the full range of risks and benefits to an individual.”



Monolithos Monthly News



While grapevines are dormant during winter, they still require a great deal of care. Grapes should be pruned during their dormancy, usually in late winter. When it comes to pruning grapes, the most common mistake people make is not pruning hard enough. Light pruning doesn’t promote adequate fruiting, whereas heavy pruning provides the greatest quality of grapes. This year’s mild winter forced most growers to conduct pruning in January.



In the winery, cold stabilisation of the white varieties is well underway.



Regarding the new winery building, there has been considerable progress and most obstacles have been surmounted.



Currently, all the 2009 wines are available for tasting and purchasing. If at any time you are passing near the village of Pachna and wish to visit the winery or purchase any of our products, Martin Wood will be pleased to meet and assist you at his “Fig Tree Villa” in Pachna, so do not hesitate to phone him at 25-816212 or 99-165995. We thank you for your continued support. Take care and remember the words of the Chinese proverb:



“Drunkenness is not the wine’s fault, but the man’s.”